The Milling Room

We somehow won tickets to Shakespear in the Park, and we were debating whether we would scour for a restaurant in the west or east side. I was browsing on Yelp, and I saw this was very close to the Delacorte Theater. The interior pictures looked pretty amazing, and the food seemed pretty good although somewhat typical American. We ended up showing up promptly at opening and were seated right away without reservations.

Ambiance

The restaurant occupies the space of the former Endicott Hotel, which was originally build in 1890. We were seated in a glass-roofed area which was known as the Palm Room at the time. The hotel was crafted of Pompeian brick and terracotta. There is a gigantic fireplace at the far end of the room which makes me wonder if that was the original.

Since we were the first patrons indoors, we were able to walk thru and absorb the splendid open architecture. It was very comfortable to be sitting in the former Palm Room. The light that pierced the glass roof illuminated the entire area with the hue that speaks of comfort and serenity. The bar area which sits in front of the Palm Room felt a little like a Spanish mission.

Price wise, I thought the food was comparable to other new American restaurants. I do think some things were a little pricey such as the octopus appetizer. When you pay for your meal, they actually bring a card reader to your table. If it matters, be forwarned that the tip on the card reader is calculated post-tax and not pre-tax.

The service was semi attentive. Our main waiter was very friendly and explained all the dishes. They also checked on us to see how we were doing. There were some moments of a lack of attentitiveness where we sat there wondering why a waiter was not coming by to see if we wanted dessert, but we figured that’s because the wait staff is servicing both the outdoor, bar, and dining room areas which can be quite a trek to go back and forth.

Food

The left was the Señor Ruby which came with Wahaka Espadin mezcal, lillet blanc, fresh grapefruit & lime juice, and agave nectar. This was a nice blend and reminded me of the big bottle of Ruby Red but with some smokiness in it.

The right was the Waterloo which came with Tito’s vodka, Akavit, fresh watermelon & basil, and lemon juice. This tasted great for the summer because the watermelon accentuates pretty prominently.

The bread was complimentary and came warm and toasted. The olive oil was served on the side, and the bread did an excellent job absorbing the oil.

The grilled spanish octopus came with peewee potatoes, fennel, kalamata olives, capers, and pimentón aioli. The portion of the octopus was a little on the small side, but it was quite delicious. It wasn’t chewy and had a nice spongy tender texture to it. The garnish was all cooked pretty well and very typical for this appetizer.

The free-range roasted chicken came with porini purée, herb spätzle, braised daikon, and wild mushrooms. The chicken was cooked beautifully. It was moist and tender. The juice was very flavorful and not gamey at all. I didn’t try any of the other garnishes since I was avoiding mushrooms, but my partner loved this.

The kurobuta pork chop came with stone fruits, peewee potatoes, pickled cherries, and cherry jus. The pork was cooked a perfect medium. The pork skin and fat were rendered very nicely and salted deliciously. The pork itself was very tender and juicy. The rib bone of the chop was delectable, and I wanted to continue chewing it since there was a lot of flavor to it. The cherry jus was a great compliment to the salt and earthy pork flavor. They also gave some roasted peaches, which had the perfect amount of crisp and sweetness for me.

Final Verdict

The food here was quite good and well balanced. If you’re ever in the area of the Delacorte Theater and looking to grab some pretty good new American cuisine, this is a good place to stop by. Do consider the dining room area indoors in the back as the atmosphere is very open and welcoming.

Yelp Jabs

The two that are not there are for the incredibly high noise level, rather like eating in a subway train.

I can see this being a possibility if you go during prime time. We went at 5 PM on a Saturday, and the entire area was pretty empty even after we left at 6:30 PM. There are definitely some benefits to dining at non-standard NYC times.

She became very aggressive when it was time to include the tip. She stood over me and reminded me that I am tipping for two.

I’ve noticed this behavior a bit more frequently when someone comes over with a remote card reader. Here’s my two cents. Just take your time and pretend they aren’t there. If they cause a stir like this, hold to your beliefs. You are tipping based on the service as a whole and not just the waiters. If they are offended, then sucks to be them.